CAMPBELTOWN TASTING |
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Campbeltown offers a wide range of styles, light to peated, and all good. |
The whisky regions of Scotland are seemingly as fluid as the whisky itself. Depending upon who you listen to or read, there are either four, five or six. What is for certain is that the Lowlands, Islay and the Highlands are always listed as separate regions in their own right. Speyside is sometimes listed as a sub-region of the Highlands, even though it has the largest number of distilleries of any region and has its own definitive style. The Islands, too, are sometimes listed as a sub-region of the Highlands. Finally, after spending years being subsumed into the Highlands bosom, Campbeltown has re-emerged as a separate region. Quite right too! For an area that once prided itself as the whisky capital of Scotland, losing its own identity must have been hard to take.
Campbeltown, known as "The Wee Toon", once boasted the highest capita income per head in the country because of its lucrative fishing, shipbuilding, coal mining and whisky industries. Although these industries are much reduced, it is still a highly popular holiday resort, lying as it does on the Gulf Stream that gives it a mild climate. Looking at the harbour today, it is difficult to imagine 400 herring boats crammed into it, but it is probably even harder to imagine 34 distilleries operating shoulder to shoulder in the town.
Initially supplying an increasingly thirsty public, these distilleries soon found that they were competing with the sweet and light Speyside whiskies whose distilleries had recently become more accessible through the railways. The oily, peaty and heavy Campbeltown whiskies fell out of favour in the UK, so they turned their attention to the American markets. However, by this time, the Campbeltown distilleries seemed content to produce huge amounts of malt without worrying too much about quality, and the region became synonymous with bad whisky. The prohibition in the US was the final blow. Sixteen distilleries closed in the 1920s alone. Today, only two of these original distilleries exist in the region: Springbank and Glen Scotia. Whereas Glen Scotia seems to have suffered from a lack of investment over the years, Springbank is one of THE world's great distilleries. Without it, Campbeltown’s right to belong to a separate region must have been a little questionable.
However, it has recently revived the names of the long-dead Longrow and Hazelburn distilleries as two further variants produced under its own roof; the former heavily-peated and the latter triple-distilled and unpeated. But they haven’t stopped there; another former distillery name - Glengyle - was revived in 2004 by the owners of Springbank as a totally separate distillery using the stills from the defunct Ben Wyvis and an old malt mill from Craigellachie. The Glengyle malts are known as Kilkerran.
The Campbeltown style is generally complex, oily, salty and peaty, and, if it might have suffered during those years of poor production quality (its whisky was apparently referred to as "stinking fish"), today Campbeltown is back with a vengeance.
Tasting notes:
Nose: Maltesers, Rich Tea biscuits. Slightly savoury, with light grape and a faint hint of shoe polish.
Palate: Intense dried fruit, beautifully clean barley with spices building, moving towards a biscuity gingeriness at the finish.
Retails for around £30-£35
Tasting notes:
Nose: Immediate salt, nuts, light grape with the smoke lurking. Dundee cake, vanilla, new leather, pipe tobacco, dried apricot, peat, tea.
Palate: European oak is there but doesn’t dominate. Sweet tobacco, nut, smoke in the background. Complex.
Retails for around £45-£50
Tasting notes:
Nose: Very light with faint peat. Quite salty. Piney. Dusty wood. Tropical fruit.
Palate: Coconut. Smooth and rounded and lightly spiced at first with the wood spices and peat growing, but with a lovely fruity, creamy edge and wonderful hit of vanilla at the end.
Retails for around £30-£35
Tasting notes:
Nose: Fruity peat smoke. Rich fudge and butter. Mildly maritime
Palate: Sliced apricot, walnuts and fudge. Sweet, resinous with smoke and nuts.
Retails for around £25-£30
Tasting notes:
Nose: Brine and fat peat notes, followed by vanilla fudge and smoky salt.
Palate: Lovely brine and bonfire smoke. Spicy. Background vanilla and ginger.
Retails for around £30-£35